17 June 2009

Chao Kiasu at Petra

Pressed for time? Limited budget? Desire to see as much as possible? Strong determination? Those 4 elements are the essentials of my kind of travels.

Today let me teach you how to see Petra in 1.5 days, the chao kiasu way!

I arranged my trip in such that I arrived in Petra at noon on the first day so that I could at least get half a day extra to see more sights of Petra. Usually people only go to Petra for 1 day. I think it's not a good idea if you want to trek around Petra and if you prefer some solitude in this tourists-infested site.
*The tombs at Bab as-Siq*

So on my first day, I explored the Monastery, Bab as-Siq (gate of the Siq) and the Siq itself. You can't escape from walking this 2.5 km long path known as Siq as it is the only way to Petra! The Siq is a narrow and winding gorge that eventually lead us to the mysterious Petra. Some parts of the Siq is as narrow as 2 meters like in the photo below!

Interesting fact: The Siq is technically not a gorge, as it was formed not by erosion but tectonic forces, which caused the rock to split dramatically in half, forming the 150m high sandstone cliff that we see today.

We eventually emerged from the Siq and what greeted us was the awe-inspiring Treasury, carved entirely by hand out from the sandstone! It was like discovering the golden pot at the end of the rainbow! *That golden pot at the end of the rainbow! Impressive*

After marvelling at the Treasury, we headed straight to the Monastery to catch the sunset. To reach the monastery, we had to climb up a hill. The journey upwards took around 1 hour+. If you are not fit enough to climb, there are always donkeys available to carry you up. Up on the hill of the monastery, we were rewarded with a birds eye view of the surrounding wadi (desert).

Tips: We climbed up to the monastery in the late afternoon, when the path were all shaded. The best time to see the monastery is the evening, when the setting sun shines on the monastery and turning it into golden colour.

We left the Monastery before it got too dark as there is still a long way to walk before we could get out of Petra. I took my last glimpse of the Treasury for the day. Without sunshine, the colour of the Treasury has turned to pink! It was orange in the afternoon! How cool!
*The lovely Treasury dressed in PINK!*

The next day, we were the first few early risers to enter Petra before bus loads of tourists invade the silence of Petra. I had the whole siq to myself! I walked through the Siq quickly to reach the Treasury. Again, this grand entrance to Petra never seized to amaze me! Actually many people were misled by the Indiana Jones movie. Inside the Treasury, there's no hidden cave with long lost treasure. In fact, there's nothing interesting inside the Treasury except 4 walls and 1 high ceiling. Not forgetting the ceremonial guard who supposedly 'guarded' the Treasury, but ended up more like a tourist attraction.
I believe everyone who visited Petra would surely has a photo of that guard! :D


I waited at the Treasury until the facade was completely lit up by the morning sun, which would only happen once in a day (or so I read). It was 9.40am (during april) then. It was also the best time to photograph the Treasury bathing in golden hue, with no shadow of the surrounding cliffs upon the facade. My Chao Kiasuness ensured that I didn't miss that moment.

Next, we climbed up to the High Place Of Sacrifice. It is recommended to make this trek early in the morning,before it gets too hot as there's no shade in this trail. From here, we could see the top of the Monastery on the opposite side of the hills and the sweeping view of the surrounding Wadi. It was breath-taking!
I came up with this wild idea to trek the Wadi Farasa below. As we entered the Wadi, there's a signboard saying 'Do not cross the Wadi without guide'. I do understand trekking in the desert is no laughing matter but I trusted my Lonely Planet guide would not bring me to 'Holland'. We did trek across Wadi Farasa, following the trail map on my trusted LP guide, passing by many abandoned tombs, homes and sheds. We even had our picnic lunch at one of the abandoned home in the desert. We eventually ended up at the Colonadad Street of Petra. It was a 20km walk!
*Royal tombs on the hill, clearly seen on the Colonadad Street*

We pressed on to explore the royal tombs. Actually there are many trekking opportunities in Petra. We took another one which was off the beaten track, where we followed a small path passed the royal tombs up the hill towards the top of the Siq. The view was rewarding. We got to see the Roman amphitheare and the Treasury from atop!
*The Roman Amphitheatre as viewed from top*

*Our feet from the rock cliff opposite the Treasury*

If you continue on, you could also walk the Siq, from up above! The whole journey took around 2 to 3 hrs, and you could have the whole place to yourself in solitude as not many visitors know about this place! One word of caution, do bring enough water as there are no stall selling water anywhere off the beaten track!
*The many interesting caves/abandoned homes off the beaten track in Petra*
With a heavy heart and even more heavier feet(my poor feet,had carried me for around 30km walk that day!), I left Petra. To me, Petra deserves more than 1 day, it's very interesting to explore the surrounding areas, not just the major sights. Just bear in mind, there are a lot of walking to do, you would appreciate it tremendously if you wear a pair of good sturdy walking shoes.
*The colours of Petra would leave indelible impression in your heart...*

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